History of vermouth

Origin: the birth of vermouth in Turin (1786)

The modern history of vermouth begins in Turin, in the Italian region of Piedmont, around 1786. That year, Antonio Benedetto Carpano created an aromatised-wine formula combining wormwood (artemisia), spices, sugar and alcohol. It drew on medicinal wines but was designed as an everyday drink for cafés and bars.

Carpano named his creation vermouth, from the German Wermut, meaning wormwood. It was an immediate success: vermouth became the aperitif of Turin’s aristocracy and later of its emerging urban middle class. The Carpano house still produces vermouth today, with Antica Formula as its historic benchmark.

Turin’s industry expanded rapidly. Martini & Rossi, Cinzano and other houses consolidated the Italian rosso style—sweet and spiced, with vanilla and caramel notes—that came to define classic vermouth.

Expansion through Europe and the rise of cocktail culture

From Turin, vermouth spread across Europe during the 19th century:

But it was the rise of cocktail culture in New York and London that established vermouth as an essential ingredient. Drinks such as the Martini, Manhattan, Americano and Negroni—created in Florence in 1919—would not exist without vermouth as a structural component.

• France: Chambéry became the centre of French vermouth, known for a drier, more herbal style (Dolin, Noilly Prat).
• Germany and Austria: more bitter, medicinal styles developed.
• United Kingdom: vermouth became part of gin-and-tonic culture.

Arrival in Spain: Reus and the Spanish school

Vermouth reached Spain in the 19th century, especially through Reus in Tarragona. The Catalan city had three strategic advantages:

By the late 19th century, Reus was producing vermouth on an industrial scale and exporting it throughout Latin America. “Vermut de Reus” became synonymous with quality. Barcelona, Jerez, Málaga and Zamora also developed schools with distinct regional profiles.

Historic references that still illustrate this tradition include Falset Negre des de 1912, from a Priorat cooperative making vermouth since 1912; Casa Valdepablo Vermut, an Aragonese classic dating to 1928; and Yzaguirre Reserva, a Reus benchmark.

1. Alcohol industry — Reus was a centre for high-quality alcohol production.
2. Trade with the Americas — its port enabled large-scale exports.
3. Cooperative network — it had an established agricultural and wine-growing structure.

20th century: industrial predominance and bar ritual

During the 20th century, vermouth became popular in Spain as an afternoon ritual: “vermouth hour” in bars and taverns, served on tap with an olive, lemon and soda from a siphon. Production, however, became concentrated among large industrial brands that simplified recipes and reduced costs.

In Italy, vermouth remained the king of cocktail culture, while in France the dry Chambéry style retained its prestige. The divide widened between bar vermouth for mass consumption and more elaborate vermouth intended for cocktails.

Second golden age: artisan renaissance (21st century)

Since the 2000s and 2010s, vermouth has entered a second golden age:

Examples of this revival on Vermutpedia include Papatán, an artisan vermouth from Jaén; Calla i Beu Rojo, a Mediterranean expression from Alicante; Vermut La Villa, made in Madrid; and Vermut del Paraíso, a Murcian vermouth made with Carmencita botanicals.

• Recovery of traditional recipes — wineries are reviving old formulas.
• Artisan production — small batches, local botanicals and no unnecessary additives.
• Quality vermouth on tap — a return to the barrel, now with exacting standards.
• Regional diversity — projects in Andalusia, Galicia, Asturias and the Canary Islands, each with its own identity.

A brief chronology

Differences between the historic schools

Next step

Explore the Spanish vermouth catalogue, the designations and schools, compare Spanish vs Italian vermouth, or read about artisan vs industrial vermouth.